Here’s Nan as we ease into the sunset, having rounded Cape Ann, heading towards the Isles of Shoals, alongside our fellow cruisers, Paul & Sally Merry in Calypso.
Cliff, Harbor, High & Dix Islands, Bucks Harbor, Blue Hill, Mackerel Cove, Seal Bay.
Overview…
Good weather returned this summer, just as we set off for Maine, so we once again had a fine visit to the north. A slight amount of rain; just enough fog to let us know where we were, and enough moments of fine sailing to keep us out of a trawler! Some visits to new harbors and returns to good, old ones. And meetups with two sets of ‘net friends.
Best quote: “We were really lucky” (also said in 2002, 2005 and 2008).
Best sail: Cape Ann to Isles of Shoals – gliding together into the sunset –
tied with reaching up Blue Hill Bay.
Worst sail: None!
Best lobster: off the lobster boat near Port Clyde.
Best shower: Beggars’ Wharf Marina, Rockland (repeat winner).
Best fuel dock: Port Clyde – rafted up this year for $2.25 diesel (repeat winner).
Best chandlery: Hamilton Marine, Rockland (repeat winner).
Best new harbor: Seal Bay, Vinalhaven.
Best new landfall: Blue Hill.
Best (and only) shore meal: In Good Company, Rockland
Click to see the photo gallery.
Sunday, July 26
Onset to Clark’s Island (Duxbury) – 27 nm
12:40 Off mooring
Nice sailing afternoon.
7:00 moored north end of Clark’s Island
dine MH Mexican Style Ckn w/Rice
Monday, July 27
Clark’s to Isles of Shoals – 65 nm
9:15 off to meet PM in Calypso in the Dux channel
Boring motorsial across Mass Bay and then great sail north of Cape Ann
9:30 moored and rafted in Gosport Harbor
dine cold chicken and hot beans
Tuesday, July 28
Isles to Cliff Island, Casco Bay – 52 nm
10:00 off via east passage
Pretty much motorsailing except for a useless diversion to the NE
7:30 p/u moored and rafted at NE end of island
dine steak (WF), beans, YG potatoes
Wednesday, July 29
Cliff to Harbor Island (Muscongus Bay) – 37 nm
10:30 off
Pretty much sailed all day – a first!
6:00 moored and rafted at Harbor Island
dine steak (S&S) and BS
Thursday, July 30
Harbor to High & Dix (Muscle Ridge Channel) – 19 nm
11:00 off to Port Clyde via McGee
Basically motored; wind DDW.
4:00 anchored (HW delta) by Cedar
dine spaghetti (Nan)
plan itinerary
Friday, July 31
H&D to Bucks Harbor (Eggemoggin Reach) – 26 nm, 6:00 hr
10:00 off through east side
Good sailing early afternoon, north of North Haven.
4:00 moored (BH Marine $30 ea) and rafted
sunshower! no cell!
dine lobster
Saturday, August 1
Bucks to Blue Hill Harbor – 26 nm, 5:45 hr
11:00 off via Eggemoggin Reach
Sadly no reaching up the reach, but a fun turn to Blue Hill Bay and great reach up!
5:00 anchored (Calypso CQR) and rafted in inner harbor
sunshower!
dine steak (TJ)
move (rafted) to a mooring
Sunday, August 2
Blue Hill to Mackerel Cove (Swans Island) – 22 nm, 5:00 hr
11:30 off
Attempts to sail, motorsail, nose on into the wind.
4:30 anchored (calypso CQR) and rafted and Todd D sails up
dine spaghetti (Nan)
Monday, August 3
Mackerel to Seal Bay (Vinalhaven) – 20 nm, 4:50
12:30 off
Cold motor through Merchant Row but then great sail across Pen. Bay!
5:00 anchored (HW delta) and rafted in 16 ft
dine steak (S&S), BS, potatoes (4-cheese)
Tuesday, August 4
Seal to Rockland – 17 nm, 3:50 hr
9:30 up and off
Motor around Collingwood Neck and through the Thorofare.
Sail/motorsail through the fog.
1:30 moored ($25 each) at Beggars Wharf
dine In Good Company ($210)
Wednesday, August 5
Rockland to Harbor Island – 26 nm, 6:45 hr
10:30 off to Port Clyde
On the nose; motor.
5:00 moored and rafted
dine lobster
Thursday, August 6
Harbor to Cliff Island – 36 nm, 7:30 hr
10:00 off
Motor, some w/sail to Seguin then great sail to the end!
Oh yes, one brief pot.
5:00 moored and rafted
dine steak (Hannaford)
Friday, August 7
Cliff to Portsmouth, NH – 52 nm, 9:30 hr
9:00 off (record?)
Wind on the nose until afternoon, after which we flew!
6:30 moored ($32 each) at Portsmouth YC
dine spaghetti (Nan)
Saturday, August 8
Portsmouth to Clark’s Island – 71 nm, 11:45 hr
9:30 off
Basically motorsail in the “good parts.”
9:15 moored and rafted
dine steak (HF), BS and rolls
Sunday, August 9
Clark’s to Onset – 28 nm, 5:30 hr
10:30 off mooring
Gentle sailing to MaryAnn Rocks, then motorsail to Canal.
4:00 mooring 1191 Onset
dine ?
The Long Version…
Sunday, July 26
Onset to Clark’s Island (Duxbury)
9:00 bug, fast storm blows through — dinghy out to close hatches!
trip out with dry stuff, then ice
finally the perishables (and Nan)
12:40 Off mooring
1:00 in canal
2:00 out of canal as current turns against us – just made it!
wind SW at 17 kts, up to 25; 125% of genoa rolled out
speed ranges 4.6 to 6.6
clouds along the shore; clear overhead
4:00 MaryAnn Rocks; sun all gone
5:00 GUrnet Point; gently cut the turn
6:00 Bug Light with 1 kt current against
drop sails and attempt anchoring in the channel by Clark’s; wind and current make it impossible to back down
guy comes by in launch and askes if we are familiar with the area: yes, but this is different!
points to his blue sailboat that had just come in and tells us to grab a blue square mooring at the north end of the island and don’t tell anyone about it
even there the current is odd; explains the styrofoam moorings so as not to knock against hard plastic ones
7:00 moored (p/u) north end of Clark’s Island
dine MH Mexican Style Ckn w/Rice
Monday, July 27
Clark’s to Isles of Shoals
overcast, wind at 6 kts
dinghy up! sun out! Wind up!
9:15 off to meet PM in Calypso in the Dux channel
10:00 around Gurnet; course 018 to Thatcher Island
first the genoa and then add the main; winds drops <10 and we bake! Getting sleeeeepy.
2:00 roll up the genoa and leave the main with preventer rigged
3:00 wind shifts to south
5:00 - 5:30 past Thatcher and around Cape Ann; finally somthing to navigate and think about!
5:45 sailing! Calypso is far ahead but has no engine now (ha!)
6:15 Calypso bleeds Racor and motors again
wind comes up, engines off and we're rollicking along in silence, side by side!
8:00 lightning storms ahead
9:30 moored (p/u) and rafted in Gosport Harbor
dine cold chicken and hot beans
was so boring to motorsail across Mass Bay but then Cape Ann brought the small nav challenges and wakefulness. Then the sailing into the sunset (and storm!) was exhilarating.
Tuesday, July 28
Isles to Cliff Island, Casco Bay
day begins beautiful and calm
8:00 harbor about empty
discover leak at HW tank
10:00 off via east passage; 4 kt wind
10:30 10+ kts; genoa out 135%
1:30 main up but still motorsailing
4:00 enough! tack towards HW rock with hopes to gybe back in after some sailing
eventually give up and head back in.
7:30 moored (p/u) and rafted at NE end of island
Sally on the beach
dine steak (WF), beans, YukG potatoes
Wednesday, July 29
Cliff to Harbor Island (Muscongus Bay)
cold, clammy, foggy; warms with low mist remaining
fix HW leak with additional hose clamp from Calypso
10:30 up to 80 and prep to leave
12:00 all sails up; speed in mid 4s with wind 8 kts SSW
just the splash of water, gently rocking and sun
wind into 2 digits; whee!
12:30 drips; motor on; sunny, cool breeze
2:00 past Seguin
wind 12+ kts, speed 6+ kts; sweet!
4:00 Pemaquid and sails down
6:00 moored (p/u) and rafted at Harbor Island
dine steak (S&S) and BS
Thursday, July 30
Harbor to High & Dix (Muscle Ridge Channel)
2:00 wind to 15
6:00 wind down, seas up, fog
7:00 rain
8:00 fog lessens; most boats gone
10:00 fog gone along with "Back Home" which had dragged out to the north
11:00 off to Port Clyde via McGee
12:30 Pt Clyde for diesel (12 gal @ $2.25!) and water
rafted up for speed; most time spent at the register
2:00 Mosquito Island: no wind; sun!
finally wind, but DDW (surprise!)
4:00 anchored (HW delta) by Cedar after trying small cove in Dix where lee winded
circumnavigate DIx on foot
thunderstorm threatened, but a no show
perfect if cloudless sunset
dine spaghetti (Nan)
plan itinerary, which in fact followed!
Friday, July 31
H&D to Bucks Harbor (Eggemoggin Reach)
chilly (upper 50s) and foggy in the night; burns off by 8:30
Wind no but warmer yes
10:00 off through east side, zig-zagging to W Pen Bay
Calpyso buys 5 chix for $40 (and no bands!)
course 053 to Bucks; no wind
11:30 ditto; VH and OH hazy
12:30 Pulpit! not very lusty regatta ahead
1:00 genoa up, tack DW, splitting islands with Calypso - quiet!
2:00 rain; Calyupso remains under sail - veeeery slow
4:00 moored (BH Marine #23, $30 ea) and rafted
5:00 sunshower! and heavier rain in a cozy little world
6:00 pouring!
NO CELL!
dine lobster on Calypso
Saturday, August 1
Bucks to Blue Hill Harbor
beautiful morning; no wind
still hear that sound; is it wind in the trees or water falling?
walk up to the quarry and then back along the water's edge
11:00 off via Egg Reach, motorsailing and fridge
12:00 DI bridge and WSW < 5 kts
12:07 wind > 5kts; and 1 kt current; genoa out; Calypso powers past
12:30 mail up; overtaking begins
12:45 power back on but can see boats heeling in Jerico Bay
1:20 sailing! 15 kts
2:00 crossing from Smutty/Malone over to Pond DDW quiet but cell
agree on can 6 and then both sneak past at 4
gybe towards the RW in channel
3:00 turn at red; wind dies then returns more to the west: sail on!
wonderful reach up the bay
4:00 double greens
5:00 anchored (Calypso CQR) and rafted in inner harbor next to “Far Horizons” from Freeport
wind drops; hot! sunshower!
dine steak (TJ)
move (rafted) to a mooring
later learn Gordon Bok was performing in town
Sunday, August 2
Blue Hill to Mackeral Cove (Swans Island)
9:30 visit town, or course mostly closed; it being Sunday morning
general store great for meat and veggies
buy entire b/b ring cake from late-awakening baker
11:30 off; wind S at 11 kts.
many thought on which side of BH Bay to go down; would one give a wind angle, etc.
12:30 sail! beat!
2:30 fog! DDW! Maine!
4:30 anchored (calypso CQR) and rafted and Todd D and Linda H show up
5:00 wine & cheese & bb cake w/ guests
dine spaghetti (Nan)
8:00 visit Seaquestor for more wine and cheese
no other boats (or mosquitoes)
Monday, August 3
Mackeral to Seal Bay (Vinalhaven)
awake fogged in
10:00 sun, heat, clearing
discuss a non-urban next stop, i.e., skip North Haven and its shops, and do Seal Bay?
10:00 dinghy in and walk through mossy woods to “Atlantic,” a three-way interesection
insteresting the old houses by the water and the new houses up the hillsides to see over the old ones
12:30 off for a motor across to Merchant Row and dodge pots through all. And cold!
3:30 into Pen Bay and sail! Warm!
5:00 anchored (HW delta) and rafted in 16 ft
dinghy in and wander around and across the nearby islands, Burnt and its smaller unnamed friend to the N
many boats! not a place to strike fear!
dine steak (S&S), BS, potatoes (4-cheese)
Tuesday, August 4
Seal to Rockland
foggy early, no wind; not so cold
9:30 up and off
outside its cold, foggy, cool SE (!) wind
10:30 echo off shore from GooseRocks lighthouse
11:00 N Haven; wind now NW?
11:30 E Pen Bay, wind now S and FOG
talk to Tom Young on a Camden roof he sees the fog
12:00 some genoa out + motor
wind is 6 kts; 1 hour to Rockland
oh yes, pea-soup fog
1:30 moored ($25 each) at Beggars Wharf
inflate the Achilles, finally!
Hannafords via Joes Cab; Tom Young appears on the wharf
shop; Island Institute
excellent dinner at In Good Company ($210)
wander the twilight town
Wednesday, August 5
Rockland to Harbor Island
dawns warm, hazy
quick shore run: At Bk Co, T-hirts, H.M.
10:30 off to Port Clyde in10 kt SW
seas, hidden pots, wind on nose
Calypso gets bugs (5 for $20)
P.C. another 10 gal, water tank, 1 block ice
5:00 moored and rafted
still noisey Osprey
storm approaches, blows past, beautiful
dine lobster
great moonrise
Thursday, August 6
Harbor to Cliff Island
bright, sunny, warm, little wind
saw a Sabre pass the entrance
10:00 off windless
12:00 around Pemaquid, wind < 10
roll out genoa; make it perhaps to Fishermans
porpoises at Thrumcap Island!
1:00 Cuckolds, wind on nose; ditto Seguin
3:00 all sails up! 7+ kts! beautiful!
4:30 POT! popped off while being examined by stern ladder
enter Cliff via north entrance by Eagle I ledge
5:00 moored (p/u) and rafted
dine steak (Hannaford)
Friday, August 7
Cliff to Portsmouth, NH
clear, blue sky, sunny but cool (for a while)
Sally put off to shore; a NW wind?
9:00 off (record?)
mail up motoring calmly through the pots
10:00 out past Green, 1.0 kts
11:00 Cape E; wind making up mind
11:30 try a tack towards Bid Pool
12:00 onna nose 8 kts and 10 hours if tack it's 12, 14, 16 hours?
1:30 reaching at 7 kts with 120% genoa... Nan says, Wow!
4:00 screaming along in 20 kt true
given the strong NW wind, do we want to rock in Gospoprt Harbor or be comfy in the new (to us) Portsmouth?
call and set up with PYC; we cut inside the ledges; Calypso already along shore
5:30 2KR entrancy bouy
6:30 moored ($32 each) at Portsmouth YC
launch brings up togther for w&c before it shuts down
dine spaghetti (Nan)
Saturday, August 7
Portsmouth to Clark's Island
clear, sunny, coooooooold!
9:30 off (sigh)
10:00 m/s with wind
11:00 wind all around the clocksee a T-37 with an asym for a while; a S-34 heads towards the Annisquam
12:00 wind tantalizes SE or SW?
2:000 past Milk
3:00 give up on genoa
4:30 genoa back; motorsail 7+ kts!
7:00 onna nose, 1:15 to Gurnet
9:15 moored and rafted
dine steak (HF), BS and rolls
Sunday, August 8
Clark's to Onset
2:00 take off Y-bridle rattling anchor
warmer, clear, lt wind; summerlike!
10:30 off mooring
1-to-2 kt against us
11:30 sailing gently to MA Rocks
12:30 motorsail to the canal
2:00 NE end canal; current builds to 9.2 at Bourne Bridge
3:00 or so full stop; anchored yet again
Agawam helps attempt retrieval of anchor not
4:00 mooring 1191 Onset
dine ?
What Worked…
Worked
Sunshower through head hatch (sometimes you need privacy)
New hoses for the holding tank system (no more smell)
Layering (I know this isn’t a new concept) worked well as the sun and fog came and went.
Again we found the old Taft guide excellent for locating interesting anchorages and the new MapTech/Embassy Guide much more complete than before on harbors and facilities.
Not worked
Ray repeater – blew out? wires?
Ray rudder sensor – wiring?