Down
(wind?) to Maine, Summer 2005
Best quote: "We were really lucky"
(also said in 2002)
Best sail: North Haven, down Muscle Ridge Channel, to Georges
Harbor.
Worst sail: Bold Island to Swan's Island - picked up three lobster
pots!
Best lobster: Capt.Wiggins Restaurant, Rockland
Best shower: Brown's in North Haven (repeat winner)
Best new landfall: Rockland
Best new harbor: Georges (between Allen and Benner Islands)
Short
version...
Maine 2005
Sunday, August 7
Onset to... Cohasset
slow sail gentle SW then scream after turn to Cohasset to the
evening stopover.
anchor - DGE Delta with late raft
dinner - BBQ chicken (same as lunch)
Monday, August 8
Cohasset to Isles of Shoals - 55 nm
motor/sail to Blyman Canal/Annisquam River (making both bridges)
then sail offwind nicely to IoS.
First clear evidence that HW faster then C
anchor - pickup mooring and raft
dinner - steak
Tuesday, August 9
IoS to Jewell Island
NE course with a SW wind plus SE swells.
anchor - DGE Delta with late raft
dinner - MH lasagna
Wednesday, August 10
Jewell to Witch Island via Damariscove
Fun with flying main halyard in the
continuing swells; rescued from backstay w/ boat hook. Gentle
but good sail over.
First stop Damariscove, but SW wind right up the harbor plus
no good mooring.
Bash out into wild seas like hobbyhorses and head for Christmas
Cove. Sally spots Witch Island in Johns Bay in Tafts so we go
for it as less crowded and anchoring. Well, now full of moorings,
so grab one. Quiet spot and not too far off the beating track.
anchor - pick up mooring and raft
dinner - steak
Thursday, August 11
Witch I to High & Dix Islands in Muscle Ridge Channel
Very light wind and try to sail as far as we can. By Muscle Ridge
we're powering with sails down. Beautiful spot with vistas to
the north and west. Friendly rock appears in the morning just
off our sterns.
anchor - PHM CQR
dinner - NME spaghetti sauce for four
Friday, August 12
High & Dix to Rockland via Owls Head
In the am, see the nice rock by Birch
Island!
Motorsail to and around Owls Head light into Rockland.
Harbor busy with Maine B&H show,
plus the NYYC fleet.
Aurora takes town mooring; we anchor.
They head in to have alternator checked.
DGE: Should we lock the boat? NME: New York is here!
Not seeing the town dock, we land at marina's dinghy dock and
even drop off trash.
land, lunch at Anchor?, visit friendly
and well-stocked Hamilton Marine
PHM has rental car, so visit Owl's Head Light and dinner at Cpt.
Wiggins Seafood
free boat show in the dark. also dinghy ride in the dark. Anchor
light lost in the other boats (likely the RH starcruiser ahead
of us) and we wandered around a wide area until got re-bearinged.
As I zeroed in on one, Nan said that's not our boat and only
relaxed when it indeed was.
plus anchor fun in dark and some rain
- we stealthly moved up on the Ron Holland 55 as if under power.
Almost touching I warned them with an ahoy and they emerged,
saying we were welcome to raft but they were out of booze. After
fending off, I pulled in on the rode (pointing aft) and we drifted
back. Fun mixing chain and rope in 25 feet of water!
anchor - DGE Delta 150' out and no raft
(PHM on $25 town mooring)
dinner - see ablve
Saturday, August 13
Rockland to Pulpit Harbor - 12 nm
fog at 5:30 am; burnt off by 9 am
boats, shopping, provision at Shaws, discover 1A bypass, lunch,
head out late afternoon in gentle SW at 150
genoa only a beautiful sail
Chace of Windaway appears!
anchor - PHM CQR and raft
dinner - pork, lamb, corn, cous-cous
Sunday, August 14 - 17 nm
Pulpit H. to Bold Island
blueberry, ah, cobbler prep on HW, bake (somewhat) on Calypso!
aka Stonington, near Devil and Camp Islands
no wind;all motor
anchored near rocks as (now) usual
walked around Hell's Half Acre dodging the rain
big rain later
anchor - PHM CAQ and raft
dinner - steak, corn, pilar
Monday, August 15
Bold I to Burnt Coat Harbor, Swan's Island - 11 nm
5am big wake & roll from Stonington
lobster boats
Cold, 60, rainy but sunny by noon.
Nice wind in am but mostly gone by the time head out for Swan's
by Saddleback Island, HW picked up a lobster float and wrapped
it nicely
can lightning strike twice?
Turning towards Swan, under sail so as not to have to worry,
hook a toggle line with rudder. Then after cutting the line and
backing off, thwack! and another float pops up!
But all works and motor off to Burnt Coat, but slow.
Paul discovers much stuff spinning around prop as we maneuver
to raft up.
anchor - PHM CQR and raft
diner - MH chicken a la king
Tuesday, August 16
Swan's I to North Haven - 25 nm
Temp. 57 in and out.
during breakfast successfully unwind stick, shackle and line
from propellor with boat hook
motor around for half an hour waiting to get a shot at the COOP
fuel dock and give up.
nice sail on SW across Jerico Bay and
through Merchants Row. Turned back from way ahead when C disappeared
behind Harbor Island and then never caught up after they reappeared
fun tacking down Fox Island Thorofare
Southern comfort - hmmfp
no trash, no store, showers in the dark
after dinner and pass on laundramat
anchor - JOB mooring $10! with raft
dinner - Coal Wharf lobster
Wednesday, August 17
the begin of the end (of the trip)
North Haven to Georges Harbor, Allen Island - 30 nm
Provision at Islander store w/free ride
and $1.50 per trash bag
Install ST4000+ on Calypso
a full day of great sailing of many
sorts!
across E. Penobscot Bay - main + genoa
down Muscle Ridge Channel - genoa only
across to Mosquito Island - ditto
down and around Old Cilly Ledge and 2OC, past Burnt and over
Allen to the harbor between same and Benner, in now 21-23 knots
Dodging lobster pots against the setting sun - fun!
anchor - DGE Delta
then called to by caretaker to take a mooring by the pier
Paul having taken the Pt. Clyde Davis Straits passage enters
and takes the mooring, after some adventure involving a lost
boat hook hook and dinghy romping around.
Also the catamaran from High & Dix is already there (and
they saw us in Rockland).
dinner - shrimp et al
mosquitos on us!
no cell
Thursday, August 18
Georges H. to Richmond Island - 53 nm
gentle SW, zig-zag a lot around the
points of land
genoa out and in and out and then won't go out all the way
so motorsailed to keep up speed without enough sail area across
Casco Bay
Finally could sail towards Cape Elizabeth when turned in/wind
speeed up
anchor - DGE Delta and raft
dinner - chops from NH
spot near shore w/ledge according to
boat there
sloping bottom and much calculation of tide times and depths
at 2 am took in scope to get out from 9.x feet to 12.x
at dawn (low tide was 5 am) could see we were in a "custom
anchorage"
Friday, August 19
Richmond I to Isles of Shoals - 46 nm
the forecast NW was a NE, changing our
angle to be sure
today is to be SW but is still NE
furler is okay after loosening the halyard
mix of sail and motorsail
walk around Star Island
anchor - mooring
dinner - steak from NH
Saturday, August 20
Isles to Canal, Plymouth, North River, Scituate,... Cohasset!
- 55 nm
And the SE? Motor around Cape Ann
And the fog? Yes! Good I'd assembled the Davis Origami radar
reflector Friday afternoon.
Swells? Yes!
After Cape Ann, sun but still no wind
Decided once again on Cohasset, also
giving decent sailing angle
Finally sailing again 7+ knots, effortlessly
Learn also that when cb is not needed, it is a detriment
Anchor - DGE Delta and raft, same spot
as two weeks ago in
Dinner - MH beef and potatoes
Okay, let's not raft as swells swing
boats wildly
Sunday, August 21
Cohasset to Onset - 50 nm
SW wind all over the place from under
10 to near 20 kts.
Good learning about reefing of both genoa and main, latter which
works very well from mast. Sails in and out, up and down.
Go to main and motor after Maryann Rocks
to catch the canal (along with several other sailboats) Wisps
of fog streaming across the canal as we motor through at 9+ kts.
After the RR bridge at Mass Maritime is a solid wall of fog.
Some boats turn back; we plunge boldly in, steering off the chartplotter.
The big stone mark at the entrance to the Onset channel appears
on time and as we turn in, the way clears all the way to the
inner harbor. Two houts later, it was socked in. Paul reported
that his radar showed all sorts of boats milling about in the
fog, including a canal boat. We saw but one small power boat.
And they say Maine has fog!
anchor - town mooring 1191
dinner - Marc Anthony's Pizza
Long Version...
Overview...
This is our third trip to Maine,
after a two-summer hiatus. It is also the first season for both
Nan and I and Paul and Sally Merry in our new, longer boats.
We are now sailing Hickory Wind, a 1986 Sabre 34 Mk II and they
are in Calypso, a 1978 Bristol 40 yawl. As usual, Paul's wife
Sally will join us in Maine, so he will also get to single-hand
the unfamiliar boat for several days.
The Way Up,
North (or Down East if you prefer)...
Saturday, August 6
provisioning, Onset, MA
The last day before leaving is always
a challenge. In past years, Jabberwocky never looked the same
after being loaded than prior, when all was neat. Hickory Wind
can take a lot more supplies and just hide them away, so she
wasn't a complete disaster as we headed out. But of course life
is never that simple.
My day began at 4am as I lay awake,
thinking about the strip steaks and other frozen meals in the
fridge back in Boston. At 5, still awake, I got in the car and
drove the hour back to rescue the food. This was a lot of fun,
since it turned out that the tunnel of the Big Dig is closed
in the wee hours, and I ended up in a crush of tractor-trailers
on Frontage Road, finally dumping us in Chinatown as dawn lightened
the sky. Anyway I got the frozen items and was back in Onset
befoe anyone else awoke. (It was worth it.)
The second confusuon was a suddenly-scheduled
family picnic which took one or two boat trips out of the plan.
Perhaps I'd have realized that we wouldn't need the 100% jib
and some other stuff and we'd have had more room in the quarter
berth. And we would have been more ready to leave earlier Sunday
morning. But it was a good picnic.
Sunday, August 7
Onset to Cohasset
Well, for a change we don't leave as
early as hoped for; we still have to load the perishables onto
Hickory Wind. Paul, who arrived in the very late evening (early
night?) last night is up along with his two-day crew member.
It does not feel normal to be behind schedule, much less to have
Paul ahead of same, but so seem to go these leaving days.
Maine 2005
Sunday, August 7
Onset to... Cohasset
sail slowly in gentle SW then scream
after turn to Cohasset to the evening stopover.
rugged a preventer on the main which helped the pretty much downwind
run.
No, didn't make it to Gloucester. Considered various stopping
places: Plymouth too close, Scituate costs, hey, never been in
Cohasset! Looks good in MapTech guide.
Nan says, should we have the centerboard down and it's like a
turbocharger kisked in.
Followed in the easern entrance by another boat. We slow to see
what they do; they slow to ask if we know the way in!
anchor - DGE Delta with late raft
dinner - BBQ chicken (same as lunch)
Monday, August 8
Cohasset to Isles of Shoals - 55 nm
motor/sail to Blyman Canal/Annisquam
River (making both bridges)
then sail offwind nicely to IoS.
First clear evidence that HW faster then C
Sunshower in cockpit
anchor - pickup mooring and raft
dinner - steak
Tuesday, August 9
IoS to Jewell Island
NE course with a SW wind plus SE swells.
Too strong for simple preventer; tie for bad helm between autppilot
and self. Must learn downwind tacking!
Arrive at sunset, Paul diverting to YC to pick up Sally. Interesting
to see them pick their way out to Jewell, their spotlight looming
and flashing in the dark.
anchor - DGE Delta with late raft
dinner - MH lasagna
Wednesday, August 10
Jewell to Witch Island via Damariscove
Fun with flying main halyard in the
continuing swells; rescued from backstay w/ boat hook. Gentle
but good sail over.
First stop Damariscove, but SW wind right up the harbor plus
no good mooring.
Bash out into wild seas like hobbyhorses and head for Christmas
Cove. Sally spots Witch Island in Johns Bay in Tafts so we go
for it as less crowded and anchoring. Well, now full of moorings,
so grab one. Quiet spot and not too far off the beating track.
anchor - pick up mooring and raft
dinner - steak
Thursday, August 11
Witch I to High & Dix Islands in Muscle Ridge Channel
Very light wind and try to sail as far as we can. By Muscle Ridge
we're powering with sails down. Beautiful spot with vistas to
the north and west. Friendly rock appears in the morning just
off our sterns.
anchor - PHM CQR
dinner - NME spaghetti sauce for four
Penobscot
Bay...
Thursday, July 18
Friday, August 12
High & Dix to Rockland via Owls Head
In the am, see the nice rock by Birch
Island!
Motorsail to and around Owls Head light into Rockland.
Harbor busy with Maine B&H show,
plus the NYYC fleet.
Aurora takes town mooring; we anchor.
They head in to have alternator checked.
DGE: Should we lock the boat? NME: New York is here!
Not seeing the town dock, we land at marina's dinghy dock and
even drop off trash.
land, lunch at Anchor?, visit friendly
and well-stocked Hamilton Marine
PHM has rental car, so visit Owl's Head Light and dinner at Cpt.
Wiggins Seafood
free boat show in the dark. also dinghy ride in the dark. Anchor
light lost in the other boats (likely the RH starcruiser ahead
of us) and we wandered around a wide area until got re-bearinged.
As I zeroed in on one, Nan said that's not our boat and only
relaxed when it indeed was.
plus anchor fun in dark and some rain
- we stealthly moved up on the Ron Holland 55 as if under power.
Almost touching I warned them with an ahoy and they emerged,
saying we were welcome to raft but they were out of booze. After
fending off, I pulled in on the rode (pointing aft) and we drifted
back. Fun mixing chain and rope in 25 feet of water!
anchor - DGE Delta 150' out and no raft
(PHM on $25 town mooring)
dinner - see ablve
Saturday, August 13
Rockland to Pulpit Harbor - 12 nm
fog at 5:30 am; burnt off by 9 am
boats, shopping, provision at Shaws, discover 1A bypass, lunch,
head out late afternoon in gentle SW at 150
genoa only a beautiful sail
Chace of Windaway appears!
anchor - PHM CQR and raft
dinner - pork, lamb, corn, cous-cous
Sunday, August 14 - 17 nm
Pulpit H. to Bold Island
blueberry, ah, cobbler prep on HW, bake (somewhat) on Calypso!
aka Stonington, near Devil and Camp Islands
no wind;all motor
anchored near rocks as (now) usual
walked around Hell's Half Acre dodging the rain
big rain later
anchor - PHM CAQ and raft
dinner - steak, corn, pilar
Monday, August 15
Bold I to Burnt Coat Harbor, Swan's Island - 11 nm
5am big wake & roll from Stonington
lobster boats
Cold, 60, rainy but sunny by noon.
Nice wind in am but mostly gone by the time head out for Swan's
by Saddleback Island, HW picked up a lobster float and wrapped
it nicely
can lightning strike twice?
Turning towards Swan, under sail so as not to have to worry,
hook a toggle line with rudder. Then after cutting the line and
backing off, thwack! and another float pops up!
But all works and motor off to Burnt Coat, but slow.
Paul discovers much stuff spinning around prop as we maneuver
to raft up.
anchor - PHM CQR and raft
diner - MH chicken a la king
Tuesday, August 16
Swan's I to North Haven - 25 nm
Temp. 57 in and out.
during breakfast successfully unwind stick, shackle and line
from propellor with boat hook
motor around for half an hour waiting to get a shot at the COOP
fuel dock and give up.
nice sail on SW across Jerico Bay and
through Merchants Row. Turned back from way ahead when C disappeared
behind Harbor Island and then never caught up after they reappeared
fun tacking down Fox Island Thorofare
Southern comfort - hmmfp
no trash, no store, showers in the dark
after dinner and pass on laundramat
anchor - JOB mooring $10! with raft
dinner - Coal Wharf lobster
Wednesday, August 17
the begin of the end (of the trip)
North Haven to Georges Harbor, Allen Island - 30 nm
Provision at Islander store w/free ride
and $1.50 per trash bag
Install ST4000+ on Calypso
a full day of great sailing of many
sorts!
across E. Penobscot Bay - main + genoa
down Muscle Ridge Channel - genoa only
across to Mosquito Island - ditto
down and around Old Cilly Ledge and 2OC, past Burnt and over
Allen to the harbor between same and Benner, in now 21-23 knots
Dodging lobster pots against the setting sun - fun!
anchor - DGE Delta
then called to by caretaker to take a mooring by the pier
Paul having taken the Pt. Clyde Davis Straits passage enters
and takes the mooring, after some adventure involving a lost
boat hook hook and dinghy romping around.
Also the catamaran from High & Dix is already there (and
they saw us in Rockland).
dinner - shrimp et al
mosquitos on us!
no cell
The Way
Down, South (never heard of Up West)...
Wednesday, July 24
9:
Thursday, August 18
Georges H. to Richmond Island - 53 nm
gentle SW, zig-zag a lot around the
points of land
genoa out and in and out and then won't go out all the way
so motorsailed to keep up speed without enough sail area across
Casco Bay
Finally could sail towards Cape Elizabeth when turned in/wind
speeed up
anchor - DGE Delta and raft
dinner - chops from NH
spot near shore w/ledge according to
boat there
sloping bottom and much calculation of tide times and depths
at 2 am took in scope to get out from 9.x feet to 12.x
at dawn (low tide was 5 am) could see we were in a "custom
anchorage"
Friday, August 19
Richmond I to Isles of Shoals - 46 nm
the forecast NW was a NE, changing our
angle to be sure
today is to be SW but is still NE
furler is okay after loosening the halyard
mix of sail and motorsail
walk around Star Island
anchor - mooring
dinner - steak from NH
Saturday, August 20
Isles to Canal, Plymouth, North River, Scituate,... Cohasset!
- 55 nm
And the SE? Motor around Cape Ann
And the fog? Yes! Good I'd assembled the Davis Origami radar
reflector Friday afternoon.
Swells? Yes!
After Cape Ann, sun but still no wind
Decided once again on Cohasset, also
giving decent sailing angle
Finally sailing again 7+ knots, effortlessly
Learn also that when cb is not needed, it is a detriment
Anchor - DGE Delta and raft, same spot
as two weeks ago in
Dinner - MH beef and potatoes
Okay, let's not raft as swells swing
boats wildly
Sunday, August 21
Cohasset to Onset - 50 nm
SW wind all over the place from under
10 to near 20 kts.
Good learning about reefing of both genoa and main, latter which
works very well from mast. Sails in and out, up and down.
Go to main and motor after Maryann Rocks
to catch the canal (along with several other sailboats) Wisps
of fog streaming across the canal as we motor through at 9+ kts.
After the RR bridge at Mass Maritime is a solid wall of fog.
Some boats turn back; we plunge boldly in, steering off the chartplotter.
The big stone mark at the entrance to the Onset channel appears
on time and as we turn in, the way clears all the way to the
inner harbor. Two houts later, it was socked in. Paul reported
that his radar showed all sorts of boats milling about in the
fog, including a canal boat. We saw but one small power boat.
And they say Maine has fog!
anchor - town mooring 1191
dinner - Marc Anthony's Pizza
What Worked
and What Didn't...
For one thing, our "new" Sabre
34 works! I used to chart the purchase and comsumption of ice;
this year I loaded two blocks and one bag of ice the day we left
and added another bag which had been used to keep provisions
cool after shopping in Rockland. The SeaFrost unit kept everything
cold and we returned with part of one block of ice remaining.
This was the first Maine trip with the
no-longer-new Garmin 276C and BlueChart software. Can't speak
too highly of the system. Again we found the Taft guide excellent
for locating interesting anchorages and the new MapTech/Embassy
Guide much more complete than before on harbors and facilities.
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